DAY 01 - 20 JANUARY 2005 - FLIGHT TURIN - MADRID  
 
No problems at  the check in. We sent directly to Santiago 70 kg of luggage, bikes included. 
 
DAY 02 - 21 JANUARY 2005 - FLIGHT MADRID-SANTIAGO 
 
A 10.000 kms non stop flight. After our arrival in Santiago We went into "Hotel Los Espanoles".  Dinner at Restaurant "Mare Nostrum" with the Santiago's best pisco sour. Only 60 US$ the room. A very good price compared to the hotel's category: many thanks Euro! Actually the whole Chile is a lot cheaper for us than some years ago.  
 
DAY 03 - 22 JANUARY 2005 - FLIGHT SANTIAGO - PUERTO MONTT - BALMACEDA 
 
The whole flight is very spectacular. We took a transfer to Coihaique and We reached the Hotel Los Nires where I immediatly began to check and to mount the bikes. Luckly no damage was noticed. Dinner at Hotel's restaurant. 
 
DAY 04 -  23 JANUARY 2005 - RESTING DAY    
 
Coihaique tourist visit by bike. Bought spirit for the stove and some sugar. 
 
KM 09 
 
DAY 05 - 24 JANUARY 2005 - FLIGHT COIHAIQUE - VILLA O'HIGGINS;   BIKE TOUR TO LAKE O'HIGGINS 
 
Very scenic flight to Villa O'Higgins in  "Don Carlos Aereotransportes". Met in the aircraft a Chilean Engineer who was going to Villa O'Higgins to build a water pipeline.  We went by bike to Hostal Runin where We had lunch. Then We cycled to Lake O'Higgins. We had dinner at the hostal and then chatted a lot with the owner about travelling, Patagonia, Villa O'Higgins and so on. 
 
KM  20 
 
DAY 06 - 25 JANUARY 2005 - VILLA O'HIGGINS - CAMPAMENTO ENTRE RIOS 
 
After breakfast with ham, cheese and bread at 8.00 o'clock in the morning We started our long ride to Puerto Montt. Before We left the Hostal owner gave us some cheese and bread.....thanks. A strong wind blowed against us most of the time and the weather was cloudy. We pitched our tent in "Campamento entre los rios" where a gaucho asked us 4000 pesos to stay there. Before sleeping We walked to the pass near the camp. The area was very wild and We saw only four or five cars. 
 
KM  60 
 
DAY 07 - 26 JANUARY 2005 - CAMPAMENTO ENTRE RIOS - RIO EL PASO 
 
Waking up at 5.45 a.m. Always beneath  the clouds We arrived to the harbour and took the ferry to Puerto Yungay. During the sail a very gentle Chilean woman gave us a sandwich and We talked a lot about Chile, then We gave her a little swarovsky as a present. On the ferry there was also a girl who was for a few months in Rome. After Puerto Yungay We found the hardest road of the whole Carretera Austral: a very steep ascent where We were not even able  to push our bikes and then a steep descent to the Rio Baker Valley. But along the Rio Baker valley the path is easy and it represents maybe one of the best section of the trip. We decided to skip Caleta Tortel. Met some young Chilean and Argentinean guys who were cycling to El Chalten and were coming from Chile Chico and Esquel. We  pitched the tent near the first bridge after  Rio El Paso, a few meters from Rio Baker. 
 
KM  78 
 
DAY 08 - 27 JANUARY 2005 - RIO EL PASO - COCHRANE. 
 
We woke up while it was raining but after half an hour it gave up. So We collected our stuffs quickly  and We started to cycle at  about  7.00 a.m. The weather improved more and more and We arrived to Cochrane at 20.00 o'clock very tyred.  The "ripio" was very roofed and near Cochrane Anna fell of her bike with no damages. We spent the night at Hotel Wellmann where We also had dinner with the best salmon We found in Patagonia. Got some troubles with both the bike computers. Along the path met some bikers who were travelling with the assistance of Pared Sur, a chilean tourist operator and an Austrian couple who was doing a World Tour whit their Land Rover.  
 
KM  93 
 
DAY 09 - 28 JANUARY 2005 - RESTING DAY IN COCHRANE 
 
We dried the tent and the sleeping bags and washed our dirty clothes. We sent some postcards, surfed on the internet and called Anna's sister Piera.  It was nice  to see the swallows to fly low over the streets in Cochrane. In the Hotel there was another Italian who was riding the Carretera on his motor bike. 
 
KM  0 
 
DAY 10 - 29 JANUARY 2005 - COCHRANE - JUST AFTER THE BRIDGE NEAR LODGE PASSARELA 2   
 
In the morning We tried to buy some bread but the baker could not change 10.000 pesos. So We started our no fresh bread journey. A few kilometers from Cochrane We met two Argentinean brothers from Esquel. They were biking to El Chalten. Very nice landscape before Puerto Bertrand. Our goal was Passarella Lodge but when We were there the lodge was full. Uti, the owner, told me that it was possible to camp on the opposite side of the river. We went there finding two wood workers that gave us the permit to picth the tent. The spot was super: a grass field in front Lake General Carrera. After dinner We chatted a little bit with them in their wood cabin drinking a little bit of pisco. They were very friendly and happy to share their evening with us. Near Puerto Bertrand Anna fell once again with no damage. 
 
KM  77 
 
DAY 11 - 30 JANUARY 200 - JUST AFTER THE BRIDGE NEAR LODGE PASSARELA 2 - PUERTO RIO TRANQUILLO 
 
Beautiful day: warm and clear. We cycled all day along the General Carrera Lake and in front of  Cerro San Valentin Group. In Puerto Rio Tranquillo We rented a "cabana" at "Silvana Hospedaje" but it was not  a good deal: We had a very bad dinner and the owner made us pay  5 kg of clothes cleaning instead of 3 kg (the real weight).  
 
KM 45 
 
DAY 12 - 31 JANUARY 2005 - PUERTO RIO TRANQUILLO - CAMP 10 KMS AFTER THE PORTEZUELO HJO CAYON 
 
Before  Puerto Murta We bought in a farm a special strawberry jam and some bread (1.500 pesos for the whole). Met two German motobikers and a German biker  who was coming from Alaska. We chatted a little bit all togheter. Just before the Portezuelo Hjo Cayon We met a Ducht biker (I could recognize him immediatly thanks to the Vittorio bike he was riding) with stomac cramps. He asked me where was the nearest village, I answered 30 kms away; so He asked me where was the nearest house, I answered 500 meters away. He said it was better going to that house. The Ducth guy had also broken some spokes. We pitched the tent about 10 kms after the Portezuelo near a timberland's camp. Dinner with smashed potatoes, vegetables soup and cheese. At 10.00 pm We were in our sleeping bags. 
 
KM 73 
 
DAY 13 - 01 FEBRUARY 2005 - CAMP 10 KMS AFTER PORTEZULEO HJO CAYON - VILLA CERRO CASTILLO 
 
We did not meet any other biker and finally We found a sealed road in Villa Cerro Castillo. However the last part of the path was hard because of the heat and the road conditions (a lot of mobile gravel). We spent the night at "Residential Villarica" where We also had dinner. In Villa Cerro Castillo Residential Villarica is a good accomodation. 
 
KM 53 
 
DAY 14 - 02 FEBRUARY 2005 - VILLA CERRO CASTILLO - COIHAIQUE 
 
A whole day on sealed road and a big pass to climb just after Villa Cerro Castillo. More than half Carretera done. Met a Japanease biker who was riding from Puerto Montt to Ushuaia, He said  us that He had heavy rain in the north.  Night at "Hotel Los Nires" where before We left our bike bags. The receptionist recognized me finding my face al little bit burned from the sun. 
 
KM 101 
 
 DAY 15 - 03 FEBRUARY 2005 - RESTING DAY 
 
We mailed the bike bags to "Hotel Don Luis"  in Puerto Montt and We dried the tent.  We ate only fruit and salad all day long, probably We were full up of cheese, dried soup, smashed potatoes, enegetic bars and so on. 
 
KM   0 
 
DAY 16 - 04 FEBRUARY 2005 - COIHAIQUE - PUERTO AISEN 
 
Except for a steep ascent just outside Coihaique the journey was very nice, along a sealed road for the second day. We took a good "cabana" in Puerto Aisen (Cabanas Tatio, 25000 pesos). We cooked some spaghetti for dinner. Met two American bikers who were travelling from Puerto Montt to Ushuaia but I think with some assistance because They had no panniers. 
 
KM  70 
 
DAY 17 - 05 FEBRUARY 2005 - PUERTO AISEN - VILLA MANIHUALES 
 
Still sealed road. We slept at Residential Manihuales which is clean and has a fair price.  We decided to have dinner in another place and it was a good idea, in fact at "Yassuf Comidas" We made pigs of ourselves for 9850 pesos only and the owner offered us, as a present, some "peivre", a local sauce they use a lot as appetizer with some bread.  
 
KM 61 
 
DAY 18 - 06 FEBRUARY 2005 - VILLA MANIHUALES - VILLA AMENGUAL 
 
After 25 kms the sealed road finished and We found one of the hardest "ripio" of the whole trip. During the first 5 kms of "ripio" it was almost impossible to stay on our bikes and many times We walked pushing  even in flat sections. Because of the heat We arrived to Villa Amengual very tired and We chose place the worst ever hospedaje  where the only thing We apreciated was the price: 2500 pesos per person, dinner included. 
 
KM 60 
 
DAY 19 - 07 FEBRUARY 2005 - VILLA AMENGUAL - PUYUHUAPI  
 
After We woke up the residential owner in order to pay  2500 pesos per person, We began to cycle under a cloudy sky. We entered the Queulat National Park climbing the Portezuleo Queulat Pass where I needed to fix the rear rack because of the loss of a bolt. Glaciers are  characteristic of the whole path. We arrived to Puyuhuapi at 20.00 and went to "Residential Carretera Austral" which happened to be a good choice: it was clean, with good breakfast and was cheaper enough  for the category: 8.000 peso for a room with shared bathroom and breakfast. Dinner at Café Aleman.    
 
KM  90 
 
DAY 20 - 08 FEBRUARY 2005 - RESTING DAY 
 
We took a car transfer to Queulat National Park and so We were able to see one of the Patagonia's wonder: the Ventisquero (glacier) Colgante. We walked in front of the glacier and the view was breathtaking. We got back to Puhuyapi in the CONAF car with two rangers. I offered them some beer when We arrived. We washed our dirty clothes at Las Rosa Hospedaje (1.000 pesos per kilo). Dinner at Ludwig Café. Yes..the first settelers here were Germans. 
 
KM  0 
 
DAY 21 - 09 FEBRUARY 2005 - PUYUHUAPI - LA JUNTA 
 
Short transfer. At 13.00 We had lunch at Cabanas El Pangue where We also bought the Touristel Guide of South Chili. Spent the night and had dinner at Hostaria Valdera. Room with private bathroom. We were only given two slides of bread for breakfast and the laundry was not so clean.  
 
KM  46 
 
DAY 22 - 10 FEBRUARY 2005 - LA JUNTA - VILLA SANTA LUCIA 
 
Great heat after 12.00 o'clock so We had a break in Villa Vanguardia,  We had some mixed salad in a little restaurant which was run by a lady and her daughter. They where very kind, the village was very small..only height houses  and next time I would like to spent the night there. We gave a  swarovsky to the two women. The residential in Villa Santa Lucia was  called San Antonio..not so bad and not so good. Bernarda, the owner, in the morning saw us a book written by Jovanotti (an Italian singer who cycled alone part of Patagonia) who was there and reported the fact in a book mentioning  Bernarda and her residential too. (10.000 pesos with dinner, breakfast and shared bathroom). 
 
KM 71  
 
DAY 23 - 11 FEBRUARY 2005 - VILLA SANTA LUCIA - CHAITEN 
 
Here in Chaiten many people come by ferry and  begin  the Carretera race. Other people,  after having ridden the Carretera take the ferry to Chiloé or Puerto Montt. We decided to bike the whole Carretera, so no ferry but still hard "ripio". During the journey it is possible to see the Yelcho Glacier and many other glaciers I don't know the name. A nice surprise: just two kilometers after El Amarillo We found a sealed road, so  We arrived to Chaiten quickly. The day began with a hard climb to a 600 m pass. Met two  Austrian girls who were biking the Carretera from Puerto Montt to Coihaique: very lucky them because they come from another bike's paradise: Austria of course. Met also  a crazy guy who was biking with the BOB trail: only a fool can cycle the Carretera with the BOB. We chose Cabanas Brisas del mar as Hotel. It was not a big deal as the restaurant's  waiter broughts us the wrong dishes, We payed 4.000 pesos per kilo for laundry service instead of the 1.000 pesos we were asked elsewhere...and it did not accept the credit card even if there was a Visa-Master card sign at the entry. And We were running out of chilean pesos....  
 
KM 78 
 
DAY 24 - 12 FEBRUARY 2005 - RESTING DAY 
 
In the evening We had a good dinner a lot better than the day before at the restaurant  next to our Hotel. All day long We rested and surfed on the Internet. Fixed  the Maurizio's bike rear rack better. 
 
KM  0 
 
DAY 25 - 13 FEBRUARY 2005 - CHAITEN - CALETA GONZALO 
 
After We had the nice surprise the Cabanas did not take credit card, We payed cash and We began our journey to Caleta Gonzalo along a section with very bad "ripio" meeting a lot of backpackers (here they call them "mochilleros"). Arrived to Caleta Gonzalo it was not possible to find any cabanas available so We spent another night in the tent after We had dinner at the local café. Caleta Gonzalo is just a bottle neck, a rats trap  where You are forced to stay (ferry arrives at 20.00 and leaves at 9.00 in the morning) and the prices are the freaky prices it's always possible to find in similar spots. We had a light rain during the night. Had dinner with very poor dishes and  for the breakfast too always at the local café: They came with big  bols with great names and  with almost nothing inside. The whole area is a private land so no free trade:  one person  makes the price, says You where it's possible to camp (1.500 pesos per person) and in general keeps under control the whole situation, this area is called Pumalin Park, but it  would be better call it "Mochilleros trap". 
 
KM  58 
 
DAY 26 - 14 FEBRUARY 2005 - CALETA GONZALO -  HORNOPIREN BY FERRY 
 
Ferry transfer to Hornopiren. During the sailing We met an Italo-Argentinean woman who came from Cuneo. This time the cabana was called  Teuhelpe. 15.000 pesos. We slept with the bikes inside the cabana and there We ha dinner and breakfast the following morning.. 
 
KM   6 
 
DAY 27 - 15 FEBRUARY 2005 - HORNOPIREN - CONTAO 
 
Light rain in the morning, We arrived to Contao in the sunshine. We went to a shop for an ice cream and after We bought it the little boy who ran the shop with his family gave us a peach for free. I asked him if He wished a picture of him and his shop and he answered yes. So I shot some pictures of the whole family inside their shop. They gave us as a present a chocolate bar. Later We went back giving them a little Swarovsky as a present.  Dinner in a restaurant on the Carretera I forgot the name. The residential Mary where We spent the night did  not really worth the price We were asked: 9.000 pesos. In fact no light in the evening  and no water  in the morning. So We made our toilet by the river. Dried the tent. 
 
KM 48 
 
DAY 28 - 16 FEBRUARY 2005 - CONTAO  - PUERTO MONTT 
 
We did it, We cycled the whole Carretera Austral arriving to Puerto Mont about at 4.00 p.m.. We were lucky: no problem with our bikes and our bodies and also had a good weather.  We met more two crazy bikers with the BOB trail. Rented a cabana in Peluco for 14.600 pesos per night. 
 
KM 62 
 
DAY 29 - 17 FEBRUARY 2005 - RESTING DAY 
 
Internet, shopping. 
 
KM   0 
 
DAY 30 - 18 FEBRUARY 2005 - RESTING DAY 
 
Washed the bikes in a service station. Resting day with dinner at the very good  Restaurant El Pazo. Fish, fish and more fish. Today I'm 45 years old.  
 
KM  10 
 
DAY 31 - 19 FEBRUARY 2005 - RESTING DAY 
 
We found a shop that sold stuff to pack the bikes. Took a cab to a Puerto Montt tourist visit . We discovered Angelmo that is the ancient town near the Harbour. 
 
KM   0 
 
DAY 32 - 20 FEBRUARY 2005   
 
Rented a car in Budget. Went  to Frutillar and Puerto Octay. We were here five years ago. 
 
KM   0 
 
DAY 33 - 21 FEBRUARY 2005 
 
Went to Puerto Varas, Ensenada, Puhuye. Had dinner in Puerto Varas. 
 
KM  0 
 
DAY 34 - 22 FEBRUARY 2005 
 
From Cabanas Abadules to Hotel Don Luis that We booked before We left  and where I sent the bike bags from Coihaique. Dismounted and packed both bikes. Dinner at Restaurant El Pazo again. 
 
KM   0 
 
DAY 35 - 23 FEBRUARY 2005 
 
Went to Osorno, Entre Lagos, Chilean customs. We had a lot of berries; We bought them along the road. Last dinner in Puerto Montt with a great "Sinfonia del Mar" at Restaurant El Pazo. Got back the car. 
 
KM  0 
 
DAY 36 - 24 FEBRUARY 2005 -  FLIGHT PUERTO MONTT - SANTIAGO 
 
Flight to Santiago.  Hotel Los Espanoles again and last dinner and last pisco sour at Restaurant Mare Nostrum. 
 
KM  0 
 
DAY 37 -  25 FEBRUARY 2005 - FLIGHT SANTIAGO - MADRID 
 
Flight to Madrid, Turin. 70 euros fee for luggage overweight 
 
KM  0 
 
DAY 38 - 26 FEBRUARY 2005 - FLIGHT MADRID - TURIN 
 
Home. End of Summer, end of trip.  
 
KM 0 
 
TOT. KMS BY BIKE: 1269 
 
DONE BY FERRIES: ABOUT KMS 100 
 
PUNCTURES: 0